Evening Wear →Dag Granath @ 2019-04-10 09:18:16 +0200
Atelier Saman Amel is all about versatility, however, for certain occasions – be it festive or ceremonial – you might want to consider something beyond your everyday wardrobe. At Atelier Saman Amel we offer three versions of evening wear for these special occasions in a sliding scale of formality: tuxedos, evening suits and dinner jackets.
We will be looking more carefully at two different ways – one classic and one less classic – of doing the epitome of festive attire: the tuxedo. Also, we will be giving some thoughts on the less conventional but much appreciated dinner jacket.
The classic – midnight
Double or single breasted? Peak or shawl lapel? With or without a waistcoat? At Atelier Saman Amel, a single breasted, peak lapel in a midnight twill cloth is always a great start for a classic tuxedo.
Tuxedos are often worn in the evening (hence “evening wear”) and paradoxically as it may sound, a deep midnight color comes out more black than black in this setting. Clean black silk for the lapels and trouser stripe adds a subtle contrast.
The twill is a textile weave that creates a pattern of subtle diagonal stripes (in contrast to for example satin or plain weave) and finer twills – like the one above from Ariston – offers great luster. Adding mohair or silk to the mix is a great alternative for something understated yet unmistakably luxurious.
The less classic – deep brown
The tuxedo pictured above differentiates itself is two ways, one evident and one more subtle.
The evident difference is the fact that it is made up in a deep brown and slightly heavier fabric of 350gr. A brown tux is not for everybody, however, going beyond the classic midnight or black alternative is a fairly easy way of adding character to this very classic attire.
The less evident point of difference is the quality of the silk used for the lapels and trouser stripe. To tone down this tuxedo we have used a ribbed silk quality which is much less shiny and creates a lesser contrast to the brown cloth. In general, this is something to consider if you are looking for something more subdued.
The Dinner jacket
With the dinner jacket, the world is your oyster. The Dinner jacket is essentially festive and it is a garment where one can experiment with both details and cloth.
The dinner jacket is similar to the tuxedo, although worn separately and hence often perceived as less formal and more carefree. Most often it is done with a peak or shawl lapel. However, a notch lapel (as in the above example) is even more understated and opens for more areas of usage.
Dinner jackets can be made in numerous fabrics. Common examples would be velvet or jacquard, however, in the above example we have used a linen/silk/wool mix with a subtle herringbone pattern from Loro Piana. The silk adds luster and richness to the cloth and the subtle herringbone gives depth that stands out even more when paired with a darker twill trouser.