Talking tailoring, essentially it all comes down to the fit of the garment. In combination with the cloth and the construction, the fit is what decides how the garment feels to wear and consequently how one looks wearing it. As a rule, we aim to give shape to our jackets together with the client at hand. The final garment is always the result of a dialogue where we pose questions and give suggestions that the client gets to consider. However, there are certain aspects of the jacket’s fit that we generally opt for.
In short; the Atelier Saman Amel jacket is somewhat of a combination of the Neapolitan and Florentine tailoring traditions. It is Neapolitan in the sense that we seek an overall soft silhouette and shoulder line with a high armhole for increased comfort and effortlessness. It is Florentine in the sense that the lapel is cut straight and chest left slightly draped for a more masculine look.
We let the upper parts of the jacket “rest” heavily on the shoulder, collar and upper back. In our fitting system, we have around 10-15 measurements devoted to this part of the jacket alone as this is the most crucial part of the jacket that determines its overall appeal. The shoulder line is placed at the end of the client’s natural shoulder; hence not extending beyond the shoulder point. The gorge is placed high enough to draw attention to the shoulders, but not higher than necessary.
The chest and upper arm is left with some drape and with a clean sleeve pitch. In combination with a high armhole, the client gets a naturally masculine shape with broad shoulders and narrow waist, while still having a lot of space around the waist in order to feel comfortable. Furthermore, we seek to set the buttoning stance at the natural waist of the client (generally speaking this is lower than what one might find on RTW jackets). The lapel, which is cut rather straight and without a “belly”, roles softly from the closing button and gives the jacket an increased sense of softness.
Obviously, the fit of our jackets is obviously better experienced through images and even better tried on than in text. Check out the images linked in the text and feel free to drop us an e-mail at email@example.com if you have any questions. We would be happy to show you the garments first hand in our Stockholm atelier or London showroom.