As with the jacket, trousers are fitted to best flatter the body of the client. This means that it is somewhat troublesome to give general suggestions about fit as it varies along with the proportions of the body type at hand and with the client's preferences. A good pair of custom made trousers – as with any custom made garment – ought to be fitted in dialogue with the client at hand. Having this in mind, there are still a few aspects that we generally opt for when having trousers fitted.
First of all, regardless if one wants to have the trouser cut full or with a more conventional silhouette the trouser should have a clean fit over the waist, seat and hip. If the trouser is not fitted correctly in these parts, the trouser will look rather poor regardless. Furthermore, the back waist of the trouser should follow the curvature of the lower back and seat closely in order to stay at its place during an entire day of usage.
From the seat and down the fabric should drape freely, hence, not being fitted too tightly at any point along the leg. If fitted to tightly, the fabric will crease and the trouser will lose its shape. This drape will be adapted by looking at what part of the client’s leg that is proportionally the largest as this will guide the over all fit of the trouser. I.e. if the client has strong thighs, the trouser will have to be cut slightly loose over the calf even if the client does not have prominent calves; otherwise there would be too much of a carrot shape on the trousers. The leg opening of the trouser will be adapted after the general silhouette of the trouser and the client’s shoe size.
A trouser that sits on the hips tend to make one’s hips look wider and legs shorter; I.e. not very flattering. With a slightly higher waistline we aim to “break” the silhouette of the client above the hips and moving closer to the natural waist.
The fit of our trousers are obviously better experienced tried on than in text or through images. Drop us an e-mail via email@example.com if you have any questions or if you would like to visit our atelier in Stockholm or London show room to see the garments first hand.